In the last few years, the popularity of the Israeli-British chef Yottam Ottolenghi skyrocketed. ‘To Ottoleng’ became pretty much a verb and there was a time where every dinner party included his famous roasted eggplants with yogurt and pomegranate seeds. Hummus, labneh, rose water and lots of fresh green herbs became regular ingredients for everyone and Ottolenghi’s cookbooks were (and still are) always bestsellers.
There was also some criticism, as expected with this popularity. Critics mentioned how Yottam’s recipes weren’t very accessible, complained about the amount of hard to get ingredients (black garlic, anyone?) and how a simple side dish involved hours of preparation and a stove filled with pans.
It wasn’t only this criticism, but also personal experience from Ottolenghi that translated into a new book. Yottam is now a father of two children and he as well sometimes needs something on the table quick and easy. Very familiar for me, being a new mom (and cookbook author) myself. Now there is Simple, the newest Ottolenghi cookbook. And it’s a beauty.
Simple can mean something different for everyone and using a clever system, Yottam shows how a recipe is simple in time, preparations, ingredients or ease.
Do I think this book deserved the term ‘simple’? I do, indeed, especially for Ottolenghi standards. Admittedly: there are still some hard to get ingredients (even in my overflowing kitchen cupboards, there’s no jar of rose harissa or a bag of barberries) and not all recipes are quick. But still, they are all very good to make, surprisingly easy and yes: simple.
Without compromising on those intense flavors and variety of textures that are part of Ottolenghi’s huge success. And without compromising the precision, because every step and ingredient is carefully measured and explained. Even including the perfect knife suggestion for cutting the apple cake with crème fraiche (a cartel knife, to keep the apple pieces intact). It’s that attention to details I love so much.
There are also shortcuts in this book. In my first book I shared a recipe for a super quick labneh (by not draining the yoghurt, but squeezing it in a kitchen towel) and many people accused me that this wasn’t a proper and authentic way. I was surprised to see the exact same shortcut in Simple. And kind of relieved, because if even Yottam does this…!
A good cookbook, to me, offers two things. The first is that you want to try as many recipes as possible. I always mark those really-want-to-cook-recipes with little post-its and my copy of Simple is completely buried under those sticky notes. There are about 35 recipes I really want to make. That should tell you enough.
The second requirement is that the recipes should be correct. This seems logical, but nowadays there tend to be so many hurried cookbook productions with lots of sloppy mistakes or dishes that are purely visually attractive (instead of delicious). But Simple again doesn’t disappoint, just as I expected from the Ottolenghi team.
I tried four recipes and they all turned out wonderfully. The spicy chili fish with tomato sauce and tahini was probably my favorite. Or the easy bulgur dish with mushrooms, lots of dill and feta, a recipe I will share HERE.
It’s probably clear by now: Simple is a stunner and a beautiful new Ottolenghi production. Highly recommended.
